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The
Mad Professor's Shooting Bible Natural
Comfort
Natural Consistency
It's
a great feeling when all the elements of our Precision-Shooting efforts come together. The
more we let our stance, basic grip, arm-motion, release and follow-through feel natural,
un-contorted and unaffected; the more consistent we can be as each roll within each hand
progresses. Let
me put it another way
If
it feels natural, you are more likely to be able to repeat it throw after throw after
throw, and session after session. If
it feels contorted or unnatural, you are more likely to experience inconsistency from
throw to throw and session to session. The
less contorted and less tiring our throws are; the more dependable and longer lasting they
become. This
isnt rocket-science folks. Although
on-axis, primary-face reliability IS difficult, its not impossible. The more natural you make it, the easier it is to
repeat again and again without defect. Lets
be clear about this. All
of my tosses ARE NOT perfect, but I try to keep them within a fairly narrow band of
error-tolerance. The more comfortable I am,
and the more natural feeling my throw is; the easier it is to repeat again and again
within that narrow band of reliable on-axis, primary-face performance. The
more natural our whole stance, grip, motion, release and follow-through is; the more
repeatable, consistent and profitable it becomes. Your
Grip and Your Bodys Instinctive Tendencies
The
nice thing about using a more natural way to grip the dice is that you don't have to
change your basic grip AT ALL. In
fact, it is in the basic positioning of your hand
(and the dice) BEFORE you pick them up or set
them in their launch-position that can show an almost immediate on-axis, primary-face
improvement than using the SAME grip, but positioning the dice in the more
conventional (facing the far-wall) set-up. Guys,
those arent small improvements
those are of the caliber and grade that can make
a HUGE difference in your take-home casino income. When
players discover that they've been imparting all kinds of oppositional/off-axis torque and
yaw forces to the dice, even though their grip LOOKS perfect, and they start using a more
natural grip where their fine-motor muscles are working in cooperation with their
large muscle groups (instead of in opposition against them); they unchain
themselves from the low SRR/low on-axis/low primary-face anchor that has been weighing
down their performance and PROFIT. The
idea of course is to use your bodys natural tendencies in your favor, instead of
working in conflict against them. To
my mind, this is one of the chief causes of hand to hand and session to session
inconsistency even though you may be playing on the same table all of the time. One day youll be shooting the lights out and
cant seem to do any wrong, yet the very next day, you couldnt keep them
on-axis to save your life. Why
does this happen? Well,
from my experience, it can be traced back to the whole natural feel or rather lack of
naturalness that your entire grip and throwing motion is composed of. The
more unnatural it is, the more difficult it is to ingrain it into muscle memory and recall
it with any kind of reliability from session to session.
Though these throwing traits can be learned, your body tries to reject
them because they feel foreign, and therefore that old inconsistency creeps right back in. Moreover,
abnormal dice-throwing amplifies any minor defects in your toss-mechanics. That certainly goes a long way to explaining why
it is so difficult to maintain relatively flawless performance from throw to throw within
the same turn, let alone session to session, or week to week. If
your major-muscle groups are rebelling and fighting against what it is your small
fine-motor-control muscles are trying to achieve; then its little wonder that most
shooters have a hard time bringing any level of repeatability to their game for
back-to-back-to-back-to-back outstanding performances. In
Conflict Or In Harmony
Its Your Choice and Its Your Money
All
of that big-muscles versus small-muscles conflict even affects your breathing, your
heart-rate, the sweatiness of your hands, and the blood-flow to and from your brain. If
everything is working AGAINST each other in your body; then based on the signals that your
brain is supposed to be sending down to your fingertips; how good and reliable do you
think the dice-results are going to be? If
you get everything working IN HARMONY instead of IN CONFLICT, your consistency just
naturally becomes
well
MORE CONSISTENT! When
I first discussed this whole subject in Shooting
Bible - Part VI and then further elaborated on it in Shooting
Bible - Part VII, I was surprised by the amount of I-M's and e-mails I
received as far as the astounding results that players were reporting by making just that
one little change to their dice-setting grip and pick-up sequence. When they further integrated the other elements
that we discussed in those two articles; their reported results were equally rewarding. It
is gratifying when players are able to successfully integrate some of my winning methods
into their own game-plan and get just as good results. As
I share some of the things that have helped me accomplish success with my own
Precision-Shooting, you may choose to apply some of them to your own game. Though you may find that not all of them are
pertinent or relevant to your dice-setting aspirations; an open-mind often leads to
opportunities hereinbefore unknown and unidentified. Lets
see if we can add even more consistency to our throwing-mechanics
A
Little Insight About Grip Tightness
Let
me start by saying that a light touch in terms of Grip Tightness
is USUALLY better than a tighter grip
because the release of the dice will by and large be more even. A
smooth release is based on the relative adhesion (stickiness) and surface tension (the
same characteristic that lets you have a slightly heaping teaspoon of water even
though logic tells us that it should be perfectly flat) that the dice have
to overcome to release themselves from your fingertips.
Thats
why youll see a lot of dicesetting pros focusing on keeping their hands clean
and dry. Now let me also say that CLEAN and
DRY also a VERY GOOD thing, especially when it comes to consistent dice-release. I advocate washing your hands frequently, not just
as a good hygienic practice and a way of washing the insincerities of the world off of
you; but also as a far more practical application from a dice-throwing accuracy point of
view. Clean
hands usually mean a clean dice-release. Now,
having said all of that
Sometimes
too light of a grip produces excess dice-wobble and unevenness upon their initial
release. A
small initial wobble tends to INCREASE as the dice fly further down the table. That is, the more time they spend in-flight, the
more the wobble will intensify before they finally touch down. Unfortunately, that practically guarantees an
off-axis result for at least one of them. Any
slight unevenness at launch gets magnified (increased) when the dice start to slow down,
and therefore its no surprise that the subsequent touch-down and roll-out generally
produce unsatisfactory results. In other
words, a slight imperfection upon release is exaggerated as they flies through the
air, and becomes a MAJOR imperfection by the time they first make contact with the
table-surface. The
initial speed of your throwing-motion and release tends to mask minor flaws, but by the
time they get to the other end of the table and their forward-speed and kinetic-energy is
bled off; that minor-flaw turns into a MAJOR off-axis instigator. What
causes the initial wobble, especially if a light-touch grip is used? Ahhh
well, the likely suspect is an uneven release
one or more of your fingers gave more
influence to one die over the other, or your finger(s) held on for a
nano-second longer on one dice than it did to the other.
However,
in a lot of cases, those reasons may not offer the complete picture, and in many cases it
can be traced to something completely different. What
I am going to discuss hereunder flies in the face of conventional dicesetting wisdom. Therefore you may choose to ignore it completely. However if that is the case, then PLEASE do not
continue to piss and moan about the fact that you cant seem to get any level of
on-axis, primary-face consistency from hand to hand, or session to session, let alone week
to week. Most
dice-gurus suggest that you grip the dice as lightly as possible. Some go so far as to say that your grip should be
SO light that the cubes are barely able to remain in your hand during your entire pre-toss
routine. I
dont subscribe to that particular school-of-thought. While
the idea of using a light touch is an excellent one, and the fact that a light throw
is often required to send the dice to the other end of the table with a minimum of
forward-energy; the fact is, using an ultra-light grip is not always the best way to keep
the dice on-axis and ending up on one of the four primary-faces that you first set them
on. Yes,
a light THROW is often required, but it does not necessarily mean that you should
grip the dice like they are radioactively-contaminated cubes of unstable explosives that
the mere weight of your fingertips or heat from your hand could detonate at any second. To
control the dice to any extent, you first have to impart enough influence on them to make
a difference. Influence
in this context means keeping BOTH dice flying on the SAME trajectory, with the SAME
amount of backspin and with the SAME amount of forward-momentum to the SAME touchdown
area, and have them both have the SAME number of rotations before coming to their final
stop. To
do all of that takes A LOT of control, and TOO LIGHT of a touch (grip) often imparts TOO
LITTLE influence and control over all of those things. Now
thats not to say you have to be heavy-handed or ham-fisted about it; but when I see
the fragility in which many unsuccessful wanna-be dice-influencers handle the cubes;
its a wonder that theyre even able to pick them up, let alone loft them with
any degree of control. It
should come as no surprise then, that they have incredible difficulty breaking away from
the 44% on-axis random-expectancy and getting past the 50% on-axis performance level that
marks a consistently exploitable advantage over the house. To
get far beyond that 50% on-axis threshold requires that you exercise even MORE control
over the dice; and that usually means having to make a light THROW, but from a highly controlled and synchronized grip and release. An
ultra-light grip often leads to insufficient control. Insufficient
Guidance
Diminished Influence
Let
me use an inadequate analogy to illustrate:
Ø
If
a young child isnt given enough parental direction and encouraging guidance in their
formative years; they often end up as young adults wandering around aimlessly searching
for something, but never knowing quite what it is they are looking for.
Ø
They
haphazardly let whatever and whomever they bump into provide the impetus and direction for
their lives, and their seemingly random peripatetic journeys mostly lead to nowhere.
Ø
In
many cases, they eventually turn out to be fine upstanding citizens leading happy, healthy
and prosperous lives.
Ø
Unfortunately
for most other disenfranchised and alienated youth, the outcome often isnt quite as
rosy.
Ø
In
other words, when children are given no direction, no guidance and no encouragement; where
they end up in life is almost entirely random. So
too with dice that are given insufficient influence from the shooter
If
you dont give them enough initial on-axis guidance, directional stability and
control; then the outcome often turns out to be almost entirely random. Less
guidance often means less influence
in
Precision-Shooting, just as with children; thats not an altogether good thing. Okay,
can we leave behind any more of those pale analogies and agree that an ultra-light touch
in not always the right answer because it often gives a nearly random reply? Dice-control,
dice-influencing and Precision-Shooting all require you to exert your intentions over and
into the dice.
Ø
Too
light of a grip means that you wont be giving them clear enough instructions about
what to do once they leave your hand.
Ø
At
that point, its not their fault if they fail to do what you wanted them to do.
Ø
Hesitant
and unclear instructions simply means the dice are going to end up doing whatever they
were randomly destined to do before your deficient input was added.
Ø
That
does not mean that you have to over-power the dice with your manly vigor. Rather, it means that you have to send clear,
concise and succinct directional commands from your brain, through your fingertips, and
into those inanimate cubes before they leave your hand.
Ø
That
means you cant be too tentative or too gentle especially when the
table-characteristics call for MORE control, not LESS.
Heres
a few items to keep in mind when you are factoring in just how much input
you have to give the dice in order to get the output that you want:
Ø
Table-length
Ø
Shooting-position
Ø
Felt-condition
knappiness and age
Ø
Layout
and/or underlay bounce, sponginess, spring, skip or leap
Ø
Release-point
and backspin
Ø
Trajectory,
apogee and landing-angle
Ø
Landing-area
recoil
Ø
Backwall-rebound
In
many cases (meaning a WIDE variety of tables across North America), too light of a
grip and release fails to impart the necessary amount of input that is required to KEEP
the dice on-axis during their in-flight trip, their post-flight touch-down and taxiing,
and their final parking at the ramp when they reach their last-tumble destination. Weak
or conflicting directional instructions (speed, backspin, trajectory, apogee,
descent-angle, touch-down angle-of-incidence, roll-out speed, etc.) result in a lower
degree of control, and a closer-to-random outcome. If
the dice are wobbling or insufficiently influenced as soon as they leave your fingertips;
then they wont magically correct themselves by the time they get to the other end of
the table. In fact, their in-flight journey
will EXAGGERATE and MULTIPLY any tiny imperfections or lack of direction that you launched
them with. A
light touch is GOOD, but if its TOO light; then the lack of directional stability
that you give them WILL NOT be enough to keep them on-axis, let alone allowing them to
turn up on one of their four primary-faces that you first set them on. How Grip Tightness Affects Our Throw
Right off the top let me repeat: An
improper release EXAGGERATES and MULTIPLIES any defects that you have in your base-grip. That
applies equally to grips that are either too tight or too loose. The
central idea behind Precision-Shooting is to develop a stable, comfortable grip that
WORKS...consistently. From there you
can make slight adjustments to your throw, trajectory and target area to ADAPT to each
table. That is how it is done by the
pros, and that is how you can develop a shockingly high number of on-axis,
primary-face results.
Ø
If
a grip is too TIGHT; then it imparts too much initial-release unevenness, and one die will
leave your hand either a split-second later, or on a slightly different trajectory, or
with slightly more backspin and energy.
Ø
If
a grip is too LIGHT or LOOSE, then it tends to impart initial-release wobble, and
insufficient stability to keep them on-axis during their flight, touch down and roll out.
Ø
With
a Goldilocks and the Three Bears sense of balance between too tight and too light/loose;
youll want to squeeze the dice with a firmness that imparts enough directional
stability and control, without conveying uneven power or an unbalanced release. Smarten
Up and Fly Right
I
can tell you quite candidly, that sometimes even after all the years that Ive been
doing this; the dice still dont always fly properly when I release them. In
most cases, I can trace the problem back to a tiny defect in the way I am holding them or
in the way I released them. Here again, we
get back to the whole too tight/too loose conundrum. In
our continuing quest to get the dice to fly through the air as though they are virtually
glued together, lets
consider a few things:
Ø
Your
grip may LOOK right, in terms of all of your fingers being lined up just so, but
since each of your digits are all of unequal length; they individually apply differing
amounts of pressure to each die that they are in contact with.
Ø
Even
if two side-by-side fingers are gripping just one dice (and two more are gripping the
other), each digit may in fact be imparting separate and distinct backspin, trajectory,
release-point and yaw-inducing forces simply BECAUSE youve got them lined up
perfectly tip-to-tip (and they look darn near perfect).
Ø
Even
though your unequal finger-length now APPEARS to be equalized with this
perfect-alignment grip; it also means that each side-by-side finger is actually imparting
unequal pressure almost all of the time during your throwing-and-release motion.
Ø
When
you factor in a second die, along with one or more additional fingers being involved; it
clouds the whole even-finger-pressure/perfect-alignment situation that much more.
Ø
Even
a two-finger (middle-finger and thumb O-ring) grip is not immune to those unequal
forces. The fact that our opposable thumbs
have evolved in such a way (since our ancestors first climbed down from the metasequoias
and sycamores) that vertical and inward pressure as exerted when used in a closing-fist
gripping action; sees our thumb produce more sidal (sideways-bearing) pressure instead of
vertical force. If you close your fist
tightly, youll see what I mean.
Ø
Though
were not trying to crush the dice as we grip them, we have to be aware of, and
compensate for, the uneven vertical alignment and pressure that our thumb imparts. Well discuss this particular segment
of your grip in much more detail in a later S-B chapter, but for now its important
that you take that oblique angle into consideration when you are first setting your grip. It
May LOOK Right, But
The
idea as discussed in Shooting Bible - Part VI, is to grip the dice in a
nice, relaxed, neutral manner so that they are properly aligned, and leave (release from)
your hand WITHOUT unequal or differing pressure on either die. That's
the first part of setting yourself up for consistent on-axis, primary-face results. The
second part is in turning and targeting the dice towards their eventual destination. Once
you have set the dice so that your finger(s) and thumb apply equal and
"untorqued" pressure on both dice; THEN you turn your hand and position the dice
in the spot from which they will be launched. YES,
you still have to turn or re-angle your hand, wrist, elbow and arm in order to throw them
towards the backwall (since you set them while they were facing the
boxmans-position), but we do it in such a way so that our large muscle-groups
are now working in concert WITH our fine-motor muscles, instead of in conflict AGAINST
them. So,
how does all this add up to MORE on-axis, primary-face results? Ø
When
you set and grip the dice facing down-table, you are turning your major-muscle groups into
position FIRST, and then letting your minor fine-motor muscles do the detailed gripping
procedure. Ø
That
means that during the release-motion, your big muscles will usually be adding excessive
off-axis yaw (torque) to one or both dice as they just naturally strain to return to their
natural position BEFORE the efforts of your fine-motor muscles have had a chance to
complete their work. Ø
While
the dice will SOMETIMES maintain their axis; a lot of the time (>50%) for the
modestly-skilled shooter, they won't. Ø
That
is why many aspiring shooters check to make sure that their grip LOOKS correct, but can't
figure out WHY all of their equal-looking finger-positioning is STILL imparting
widely ranging finger and thumb pressure on the two cubes. I
know you may be as tired of hearing it, as I am of saying it, but the fact remains
Ø
Our
big muscles have much more suasion over what our body does than our small muscles do. Ø
When
our small muscles attempt to carry out fine-motor exercises that also involve fighting
against the urges of our big-muscle groups; they almost always fail to convincingly or at
least consistently lead the big guys no matter how much we wish it were
so. Ø
Sometimes
our fine-motor muscles succeed in their struggle; but most times they fail; and therefore
our dice-throwing efforts lack the consistency of being able to deliver the same on-axis,
primary-face outcomes again and again and again. Ø
If
we structure our throwing-motion so that the big-muscles are helping to lead the charge,
we are more likely to prevail when we ask our small fine-motor muscles to provide that final
little bit of critical influence that is required to get the dice to do our
bidding. That is, everything is working in
unison and in blissful coordination with each other, rather than
struggling to battle against the greater (big muscle) forces that always seem to prevail. Ø
Let
the big guys lead the way, and let the little guys provide that critical element of
precise control. Each group gets to do what
they wanted to do in the first place, and as a result we get MORE on-axis, primary-face
outcomes. Ø
Instead
of making our major-muscles fight AGAINST those lightweight cubes; why not let them do
what they just naturally WANT to do in the first place; which is to work in cooperation WITH
our small, fine-motor muscles. Ø
By
setting the dice in a neutral grip FIRST, and THEN positioning them for their
launch; the grip not only LOOKS right, but the subsequent naturally-balanced launch
imparts the dynamic forces to the dice that we want, and restricts access to the
ones that we dont want. Mirror,
Mirror On The Wall
Im
sure youre all familiar with Heavys use of a small hand-mirror during his Axis Power
seminars. Its a great way to look at
the underside of your dice-grip in order to see how your fingers are aligned on the dice. I
want to take you a little further down the road on Heavys great idea. A
few years back in Gilligan,
The Skipper and The Mad Professor, I was telling you about a 30-casino,
58-day high-seas adventure that Ms. MP and I were on.
What I got used to on that voyage was the idea of doing a little in-cabin
dice-tossing warm-up before debarking to play in the green-felt jungle of various
Caribbean casinos. Back
then, I didnt have a full-blown PaulSon layout to practice on, and even if I did, it
sure wouldnt have fit in my luggage. Rather,
I was doing a bit of pre-play tossing just to loosen up and to see how the dice were
looking as they flew through the air. There
was a mirror on the back side of one of our state-room doors, and if I angled it just so,
I could see a direct reflection of my throwing-motion.
By being able to see the dice leaving my hand and flying towards the mirror,
I was able to see some things that I obviously hadnt been able to view as the
thrower. Ø
In
doing so, I realized that some of my arm-extension, release-position, and
throwing-alignment that I thought was perfect, was just plain cockeyed. Ø
The
mere fact that the dice were managing to stay on-axis AT ALL during some of those throws
was nothing short of amazing. Ø
When
I saw it in the mirror, I realized that my arm, wrist and hand LOOKED flat enough
(from my own eyes perspective), but when seen from the oncoming mirror position; the dice
were quite a bit off-kilter from the horizontal. Ø
That
meant that the dice were leaving my hand uneven to the table surface, and were therefore
landing uneven. Like I said, it was a miracle
that they were staying on-axis as often as they were. Ø
I
immediately realized that if I went through my throwing-motion while standing directly in
front of the mirror (without actually releasing the dice), I could determine just how
FLAT or even the dice were in relation to the flatness of the table-top. Its
those small but incredibly effective tricks-of-the-pro-Precision-Shooting-trade, which
often spells the difference between 50% on-axis results and 75% to 80% on-axis outcomes. I
continue to do the same mirror, mirror on the wall release-alignment thing these
days if my throw starts getting a little too funky and isnt easily corrected using
my more conventional corrective actions. Ø
As
I stand in front of a full-length mirror, I set the dice as usual. Ø
Then
I go through my full throwing-motion. Ø
As
I bring my arm up to the mirror I am able to see just how flat (to the floor, counter-top
or table) the dice actually are. Ø
I
continue making those fake throws until the dice are perfectly flat every time
they (my hand with the dice in them) are parallel with the mirror. Ø
On
occasion Ill close my eyes during the throw-motion and then open them when my hand
is in front of the mirror. That way, I can
judge once again just how flat they actually are without aid of visual in-motion
adjustment. Like
I said, if my in-casino dice-outcomes start to go off-kilter, and my usual
micro-adjustments arent doing the trick as far as correcting them are concerned;
then I adjourn to the mirror (whether in my hotel suite or at home, or even to the casinos
washroom) and make the necessary toss-motion re-alignments. You
can do the very same thing in front of any large mirror, and you dont even need the
aid of a motor-yachts mirrored-door to do it! Good Luck
& Good Skill at the Tables
and in Life. Sincerely, The Mad
Professor
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