As a border city from across Detroit, Michigan, you would think
that the Big Three from
Motown (no, not Ford, GM and Chrysler…but rather, MGM Grand,
Greektown and Motor
City Casino) would easily overshadow their Canadian neighbor,
Casino Windsor, to the
south-east; and to some extent it does.
If the sheer number of craps tables on the Michigan side of the
border is the determining
factor, then obviously the three American casinos tower over Casino
Windsor by a huge
margin. However, for me, the true measure of a casino is whether
or not the conditions are
right for an advantage player to make substantial amounts of money
within a reasonably
short period of time…without wearing out his welcome (or that of
future dice-influencing players)…all the while remaining completely under the
Under that gauge, Casino Windsor gets my unreserved endorsement as
place to play…and profit.
Windsor Table Conditions
When you appraise and quantify playing conditions, table-felt
conditions, game-pace and
tempo, other D-I player skill-levels, casino win-tolerance and
overall atmosphere; Casino Windsor comes across as a nice, relaxed place to
churn out relatively steady Precision-
The craps tables at Casino Windsor are amongst the best
neutral-rolling, low-backwall-rebounding tables that I’ve run across…and they
have remained that way for almost four full
years now. To wit, regardless of how often they wet-vac the tables
or how frequently they
change the felt…the layouts continue to react exactly the same
way…year after year.
When you consider how often you run into a table where it seems
your shooting can do no wrong…and the next time you visit it’s a wonder if your
dice stay on-axis even once; then
you’ll appreciate the dependable landing-dynamics and reliable
backwall rebounds that
these tables continue to offer.
With that type of layout-to-layout reliability, I figured this
would be a perfect spot to broaden
my Darkside-shooting betting strategies.
A Short Geographic Note
The Great White North city of Windsor, Ontario is located
SOUTH of Detroit, Milwaukee,
Green Bay, umm, make that south of the entire states of
North Dakota…and South Dakota…and Montana…and Idaho…and
Oregon. It’s also south of New York, Maine, Vermont, New
Rhode Island and of course, Connecticut. Heck, if it was any
further south, Windsor
residents would probably start storing old washing-machines and
refrigerators on their
front porches and asking, “Y’all wanna caribou Timbit with that
there coffee?” As it is
though, until global-warming brings that corn-pone nirvana closer
to reality; they’ll simply
have to settle for rusted-out Mercury Montcalm’s and Pontiac
Laurentian’s in their side yard
and continue to insist that
all beer under 6% alcohol is strictly for children, the elderly, or the
For a Little Explorative Betting
I had been fooling around with
various Darkside betting-strategies based on my average
hand-duration (how many rolls it
takes to intentionally 7-Out), as well as tracking my primary-
face hit-rate for both the
Come-Out and the Point-cycle. I knew my shooting was up to par
and I had narrowed my chosen
methods down to a few.
For the Come-Out, I decided to
stick with my normal “Game Within a Game” strategy. It
had been delivering up a steady
flow of high-dollar cash over the last couple of months, and although there was
certainly room for improvement in both the shooting aspect of the C-O
as well as the betting
efficiency, I felt that there was much more upside potential that could
be rung out of the point-cycle
Delving Into New Betting-Methods
Without reservation, I can say
that the betting strategy that I’m about to discuss was not originated by
me. My strength is in taking the best betting-methods and ideas that others
have come up and tweaking them to
suit my own game-approach and bet-level.
The following is a prime example…
Maddog’s No-Box Play
The idea of lay-betting all
the box-numbers (4, 5, 6, 8, 9, and 10), and then intentionally
setting for a 7-Out is one
that has intrigued me for some time now.
I will admit that I’ve done
similar plays over the years, but never in a concerted and
sustained experimental way
to see just how effective and productive a method like this
would be in real-world
casino-combat. I had also done a lot of previous experimentation
with Laying the 5 and/or 9
and using it either as a Come-Out money-maker, or as a Point-
cycle strategy when
paired-up with the S-6 dice-set.
Still though, Maddog’s
NO-BOX lay-action play was a substantial step up in terms of total
bet-commitment (not to
mention that it required avoidance against a total of six numbers)
as compared to when you are
just avoiding one number (when you have a single DP-wager
with full-Odds) or even
against a couple of numbers as in the No-5 and/or No-9 play.
What finally convinced me to use his bet-strategy was the chart that he created
which shows Expected Win-Rates when using various dice-sets in
combination with variable on-axis proficiencies…all while matched up to a couple
of different Lay-bet strategies.
In Maddog’s words:
“These numbers assume that the bet is setup
the same way for each of the 36
rolls and includes the probability of
“no-decision” rolls (i.e. 2, 3, 11, 12) when laying all the box-numbers.
I ran the simulation two ways; first, where
all lay-bets were immediately replaced
when knocked off, and second where all
lay-bets were reset only on the Come-out
roll, but left up until replaced (never
taken down). There was only a small
percentage difference (7.99% vs 8.04%)
between the two strategies.
A quick look at Maddog’s chart lets you match your current on-axis proficiency
to the dice-
set and the Lay-strategy that would work best
my case I chose the S-6 set with the “No Across” bets for my point-cycle
I’m continually amused by the
scholarly scoffing about the dice-influencing concept of
keeping the dice on-axis. I’m
told that using an “ideal” starting point like supposing that the
V-3 set could be kept on-axis
100% of the time is flawed thinking and therefore the goal of keeping them
on-axis and the associated betting-methods attached to perfect concepts like
that are also flawed and doomed to failure.
If you take a sober look at
this chart, you’ll see that there actually IS merit to keeping the
dice on-axis and it doesn’t
take anywhere near 100% O/A proficiency for some sets to
prove their worth.
If you take a look at the
S-6 set for example, you’ll see that even rudimentary axial control
can yield substantial
returns with Maddog’s No-Box Lay-bets. Further though, there are
some dice-sets when paired
with certain bets that NEVER become profitable no matter
how much they are kept on
axis…and in fact it clearly shows that random-rolling would
actually offer a LOWER
When it comes to making
money from your current Precision-Shooting skills, you have to
do your homework. When you
combine your on-axis proficiencies and correlated off-axis dominants with
various different dice-sets and a variety of betting-methods; you’ll discover
a variety of ways to
directly convert your skill into profit.
Math scholars may look at this
approach as being seriously flawed and deceptive, but I
look at this chart and see “OPPORTUNITY”
scrawled all over it in big ghetto-sized letters.
Where they see flaws, I see
Maddog’s No-Box Play Into My $290 All-Across-Lay
Though this method was, it
appears, originally designed as a Come-Out strategy for a
Rightsider (looking for a
7-winner that would pay his flat PL-wager along with a boatload of
cash from an
across-the-board Lay bet against all the box-numbers), I chose to apply it to
my point-cycle-shooting (after
the PL-Point is established).
To complement the size of my
Don’t Pass with full-Odds wager, I raised the sperm-count of
the Lay-bet up to the
$290 All-Across level.
Here’s how I set it up to work
with my Darkside shooting…
I make my normal
$25 Don’t Pass wager.
As usual, I back my
DP line-bet with full-Odds. In normal casinos that offer 3x, 4x,
5x-Odds on PL-wagers, I’d be
allowed to bet up to six times my DP wager, regardless
of the Point. However, in
Windsor they allow 10x-Odds on the Pass-line, so Darksiders
are allowed to lay a maximum of
12x-Odds on the DP, regardless of the Point.
I then make
lay-bets against all the open box-numbers.
Since my DP wager
(with 12x-Odds) covers one of the box-numbers, I make wagers
For my $290 All-Across-Lay
play, I use the following amounts…
Lay $50 each
against the 4 and 10. At 1:2, each number pays $25 when you 7-Out.
Lay $60 each
against the 5 and 9. At 2:3, each number pays $40 when you 7-Out.
Lay $60 each
against the 6 and 8. At 5:6, each number pays $50 when you 7-Out.
To cover all those numbers except
your DP-Point, you’ll be looking at putting out either
$290 or $280 on the layout
(depending on your Point) plus a vigorish (commission) of approximately $9 to
cover all the numbers.
In some jurisdictions, they only
charge the vig if you win, while others will give you a break
as to how much they charge. In
most cases however, you can expect to pay at least $1 for
every $20 that the bet can
potentially “win”. So on a $40 Lay-bet against the 10 (which at
1:2, would “win” $20), you should
generally expect to pay $1 for the privilege of making that
bet. Again, some places charge
the commission upfront when you make the bet, while
others only charge it after the
win and take it out of your paid winnings.
Okay, those are the basics; let’s
get to what’s really important…how did it fare?
Casino Windsor 3-Day Trial
Here’s a summary of how I did
with this All-Across-Lay experiment:
Duration: Three days
Played: Eight (8)
Rate: ~25 minutes for the dice to cycle
$25 Don’t Pass w/Full 12x-Odds
Point-Repeaters: Four (4). In each case, I retained the
dice, and replaced my DP line-bet along with full 12x-Odds
against the second
PL-Point. There were no occasions during this experiment when I
the anti-Point twice.
Hands: Forty-Seven (47)
accounts for the total number of times I had
a DP-Point to beat.
That is, the 43 original
Points plus the 4
times I unintentionally repeated
the Point and
inadvertently caught a second
Point to defeat as
Total Win from DP
Avg. Win from DP
$178 (based on 47 total hands)
averaged over the actual 43 dice-handle-
hands that it
took to generate this income, the
average increases to
Lay-Outcomes: Sixty-Six (66)
the total number of times that I threw an unintended box-number during the
which knocked off that
particular Lay-bet. I did
not replace that
box-number during that hand.
tracked this number by using $1 chips in a
separate section of my
rack. I also kept track of
which number I was
inadvertently throwing the
Lay-Losses/Hand: 1.4 box-numbers per hand
figure does not include the four times when
repeated the PL-Point, nor does it
include the 43
initial point-establishing rolls.
Instead, it specifically
includes any mid-roll point-
cycle outcomes that
extinguished any of my All-
$57 including vigorish
This was my average
loss-per-bet where a Lay-
bet gets unintentionally knocked
$79 including vigorish
This was my average Lay-bet
loss-per hand and
accounts for the fact that on
average I knocked
off 1.4 Lay-bets per hand.
Total Net-Win from
$4743 (after commission)
Although this figure is
substantially less than the theoretical perfect-world earnings than one could
earn if there wasn’t the
inefficient messiness of knocking off so many box-numbers, I think it can
be improved upon through the
exclusion of my most dominant
on-axis box-number…which also happens to be my most
recurrent off-axis dominant
number as well.
This is the total net-win from my
income when combined with
the $290 All-
Few Added Thoughts About the All-Across-Lay Method
This is a bit of a good-news, bad
When your Darkside-shooting is
really grooved in, the All-Across-Lay method is a semi-efficient
money-maker. Needless to say, when your dice-throwing isn’t up to par;
approach can be frustrating and
downright excruciating when you repeatedly knock off your
Lay-bets with mid-roll hits on
any of those box-numbers. In fact it can be quite embarrassing
if the whole
knocking-off-your-own-bet thing really bothers you. Personally it doesn’t
bother me…it’s just part of the process of getting to the profit.
As with major grip changes or
toss re-adjustments, it’s always best to experiment, fine-tune
and validate all of your new
betting-scenarios at home before you try any of them in a
Now clearly this little
All-Across-Lay trial at Casino Windsor was not a clinically-controlled
scientific experiment conducted by guys in lab-coats with pocket-protectors and
It was done for my own
benefit to validate some additional Darkside-betting rationale.
It was done with real money on
real-world craps tables in a real-world casino, and though
the sampling size of forty-three
hands was undoubtedly way too small to pass the eight-
billion-rolls-required-to-prove-itself-mathematically-worthy test; I was
pleased with the outcome…and I
now deem it worthy enough to add it to my bet-strategy arsenal. Thanks Maddog!
Foreign-Exchange…Or How Not to Get Reamed on Currency Conversion
When you play craps in Canada,
you have to convert some of your U.S. dollars into
Canadian money. It’s as simple
as doing any other transaction at the casino cage. The conversion-rate is
clearly posted at nearly every wicket-window.
Some people don’t like the fact
that there is a difference between the “sell-rate” (which is
the rate you get if you are
“selling” your U.S. dollars and converting them into Canadian
dollars) and the “buy-rate”
(which is the rate you get if you are “buying back” your U.S.
dollars with Canadian dollars).
In some cases, the “float”, which
is the difference between the buy-rate and sell-rate, can
be as high as a couple of
percentage points. On a $1000 exchange, that could add up to
$20 or $30 each way.
Fortunately, there are several
ways around that:
You can set up a
Line-of-Credit at Casino Windsor (or any other Canadian casino), based on your
U.S. bank-account. The L.C. is "drawable" at the tables without having
to convert ANY of your
Only your losses
(if any) are payable in Canadian dollars instead of your entire
This way, you do
not pay ANY exchange on ANY transactions except for the money
that you actually lose at the
tables. When you pay off your marker, you COULD pay
it off with
U.S.-converted-to-Canadian money. This way, you only get a one-way rip
on the "float", instead of the
two that a buy-and-sell transaction would incur.
SHOULD pay off your marker with a check from your U.S. account (denominated
in $CDN). That way, you only pay your own bank's exchange-rate
float which should be about 1/3rd
lower than the casinos exchange-rate.
If you play in
Canada quite a bit, you might look at either keeping a portion of your
bankroll in Canadian dollars, or
you could open a Front Money account at Casino Windsor, and only pay the
exchange-rate once in a while when you repatriate your winnings into USD$.
Or you can have the
casino cut you a check in Canadian funds from your Front
Money Account when you want to
drain off some of your profit. That way, you only
pay the exchange-rate that YOUR
bank is offering, and not be subject any usurious
If you need any
additional information on Casino Credit, Front Money accounts, or Casino
Markers; you could have a look at Casino Credit – Part Three
as well as
my entire four-part
Casino Credit Update series (especially if you are interested in
having any of your outstanding markers heavily discounted from their
Players Cards, Comps and Food
As with most other places, Casino
Windsor has three levels of players-cards…basic, silver
and gold. Of course they fancy
it up by calling them Prestige, Preferred and Premier-level.
Their comp system is fairly
generous when compared to the LV-Strip or to A/C, and a free
buffet is yours for the asking
after a few hours of low-spread action.
A couple of dining highlights:
soft-shell crabs at the Riverside Grille…overlooking the river.
In the moonlight, Detroit looks downright inviting.
Pickerel and Tangerine Crème Brule at Caché…which
unfortunately is only open to
silver (Preferred) and gold-level (Premier) players-card members.
As good as those two places are;
C-W’s temporary Promenade Buffet falls a little short in several
areas, but it still beats most other non-casino buffet feeding-troughs by a wide
As with every four-star,
four-diamond hotel, Casino Windsor’s hotel delivers every in-room amenity that
you would possibly need or want (okay it didn’t come with the topless room-
service attendants like they have
at the Four Seasons in Chiang Mai, but this is still
Canada after all…no matter
how far south Windsor is on the map).
The level of luxury in their
deluxe/executive suites is pleasing but definitely not as over the
top as you might expect from a
gaming property that was created and managed (until McHarrah’s takes it over) by
the multi-headed Caesars/Park Place/Hilton hydra. I blame
that on (or credit it to) the
mostly conservative and restrained tastes of the high-end players
who get first shot at these
When you look out over the
Detroit River and beyond to Lake St. Clair in one direction and
to Lake Erie in the other; it’s
not difficult to get caught up in the juxtaposed beauty of the
brutally subdued proximate Motown
skyline which serves as a backdrop to the waterscape
that stretches for miles in
Heck, from that height,
Detroit looked downright inviting.
Now that I had validated my
All-Across-Lay method as a legitimate money-maker, I
wanted to start fine-tuning
it to deal with one particular on-axis box-number dominant and
its correlated off-axis
fraternal twin that was single-handedly constraining my win-rate…and
the Detroit casinos looked
like an ideal place to do it.
I hope you’ll join me for
that leg of my Darkside-shooting journey.
Good Luck & Good Skill at the
Tables…and in Life.
The Mad Professor
Copyright © 2006
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